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Mother’s Day Sunday was rather soggy here. But that didn’t stop me from wandering around the garden with my mom as she showed me all of her latest lovelies. I bought her a foamflower plant a few years ago for a problem shady spot she was trying to coax to life, and between that and her hostas and hellebores she has a magnificent little hideaway going now. On the sunny side of things, her butterfly weed, stoke’s aster and passionflower are gorgeous, and the gardenias are covered in blooms this year. I love that so many of her favorite flowers are also traditional herbs. It just goes to show that practical and beautiful are two sides of the same coin.
She knows that I have been wanting some tulip tree branches, but the storms so far haven’t brought down any limbs. So, after our garden tour, she provided me with the long handled garden shears and pointed out where the trees in the back yard have some low-hanging branches that she wanted trimmed to open things up a bit.
Harvesting Tulip Tree Bark
I generally choose a branch that is making contact with other branches. Crossed limbs can rub the bark away during high winds or the contact points can eventually create a breeding ground for infections or infestation. The way I look at it, if I’m going to be a pest and take a branch rather than wait for a windfall, the least I can do is select one that could potentially cause problems later on if left to its own devices. That’s generally good etiquette when you’re foraging: leave things in a better state than when you left them.
The inner bark slides off very easily if you choose the right time of year. Spring is preferable, I think, but you can also harvest in the fall. The main thing is to harvest when the sap is either rising or falling, and then it’s just a matter of separating the rough outer bark from the inner.
The eclectics used either alcohol or cold water preparations of Liriodendron– they believed hot water preparations destroyed the useful constituents of the herb. I decided to make an alcohol extract because that will store for a longer period of time than a cold water infusion. Next, the bark bits went into a jar with some vodka. I didn’t realize I was almost out of vodka, but I had enough to cover the bark. Perfect for a simple folk extract.
Identifying Tulip Poplar
Tulip poplar is found in mixed woodlands throughout the Eastern United States. It prefers rich, well drained soil on a slope, but I’ve also seen it growing in heavy clay- our trees don’t seem to mind.
The overall impression for tulip poplar is usually a very tall, very straight tree. Sometimes the tree splits into two main trunks, but more often than not it stays as one trunk until tapering into branches. Branches are usually long and slightly drooping. The bark is light grey and deeply veined and fissured vertically. In my experience it’s normal to find ants running up and down the tree collecting the sap.
Leaves and Flowers
The petals fall off to expose a sort of cone (it looks like a cross between a cucumber and a flower) inside the flower which becomes the seed pod. The seeds are long and thin with a little petal or “wing” attached. The “cone” eventually separates as the seeds become dry and woody. The seed pods will disperse as the seeds drop, but they also sometimes fall as a whole pod.
Tips for Wildcrafting
- Look for freshly downed limbs in early spring when the bark is easy to “slip” If you must cut a limb, make sure your cut benefits the tree and cut close to the trunk to prevent rot and infection.
- Don’t harvest the bark from the main trunk. That opens the tree to infection and interrupts the tree’s vascular flow. Taking bark from the trunk can cut off the circulation and kill the tree.
- Tulip poplar has a low germination rate from seed. Leave young saplings to grow.
- Tulip poplar will regenerate from the stump, so if one needs to be logged as part of a forest management strategy on your property, you could potentially maintain the stump as a coppice.